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SURF N SEA ONLINE 728  1.31.24 10pm

650am OBS, Saturday, May 4th

Beautiful morning with clouds favoring Windward and Mauka as fresh-strong E-ENE trades hold through the Cinco De Mayo weekend. Small Craft Adv for all Hawaiian waters.

Big Picture updated 4/28. Moderate NNW. Small SW. Moderate East trade wind swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up & Dropping 15 sec NNW + Up & Holding trade wrap. Semi-clean early, but expected to clean up further with the stiff side-offhsore trades. Sunset 2-3' occ. 4'; Rocky Pt 2-3'; Pipe 2-3'; Chuns 2-3'; Laniakea 2-3' occ. 4'; Ali'i Beach Park 2-3. Mostly cloudy skies.
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West:

Up & Dropping 15 sec NNW + Holding 14 sec SW. Clean under stiff trades filling to 15-25+mph. Makaha is 1-2'. Party cloudy skies.
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Town:

Up & Holding 14 sec SW. Surf's mostly clean with some texture from the E-ENE trades with a few glassy patches early. Waikiki reefs are 0-1.5'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 1-occ. 2'. Partly cloudy skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding 14 sec SW. Torn up with moderate E-ENE trades. Surf's 1-2'+ at takeoff on the combo peaks. Scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Holding 14 sec SW + Up & Holding trade wrap. Surf on the reefs is torn up from the fresh-strong trades. Full Pt/Half Pt are 2-3' and bumpy. Shorebreak is better at 2-3' on the combo peaks. Scattered clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Up & Holding 8 sec ENE trade wind swell. Bumpy due to fresh-strong trades. Surf's 2-4' and focused on the outside left near the rocks and middle. Shore break looking solid on the right side. Mostly cloudy skies.
PACIFIC DIAMOND 728×90 2.1.23>>6.25.23   off 11.28

Winds

Saturday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Sunday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Monday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE to E

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

North

Saturday
05/04

Primary

Up & dropping 15s NNW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7

Secondary

Up & holding 8s NE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair early , Better Later

Sunday
05/05

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Rising early Afternoon 18s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair

Monday
05/06

Primary

Up & holding 15s NW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Tuesday
05/07

Primary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Fair

Wednesday
05/08

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Fair

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West

Saturday
05/04

Primary

Up & dropping 15s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair early , Better Later
Sunday
05/05

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Up & Rising 19s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair
Monday
05/06

Primary

Up & holding 15s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Up & holding 16s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Tuesday
05/07

Primary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair
Wednesday
05/08

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 0
Face: 0

Secondary

Up & Rising 21s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
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South

Saturday
05/04

Primary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Rising Slow 25s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good

Sunday
05/05

Primary

Up & Rising 19s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
3' later
Monday
05/06

Primary

Up & holding 16s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Tuesday
05/07

Primary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising Later 23s SSW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good

Wednesday
05/08

Primary

Up & Rising 21s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
isolated 3' later
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east

Saturday
05/04

Primary

Up & holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Sunday
05/05

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Monday
05/06

Primary

Dropping Slow 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Tuesday
05/07

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Wednesday
05/08

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

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Current Swells:

Saturday 05/04
Primary: Up & holding 8s ENE surf @2-4 
Secondary: Up & dropping 15s NNW surf @2-3 occ 4 
Third: Holding 14s SW surf @1 occ 2 
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Marine Warnings:

Saturday   05/04
Small Craft Advisory for all Hawaiian waters.
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Sailing Report:

Saturday   05/04
Good for the more experienced with E-ENE winds holding at 15-25+mph.
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Diving Report:

Saturday   05/04
North shores: Poor due to NNW swell and fresh side-offshores; West shores: Poor-fair for most zones due to the NNW swell and fresh offshores; better for deeper dives. South shores: Fair overall for due to small surf and fresh trades. East shores: Poor due to solid surf and fresh-strong onshore winds.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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